top 20 new sewing patterns: July 2018 (part two)

I’m back with part two of my top twenty fave patterns released in July 2018! (Here’s part one.) Putting this post together took a little longer than I expected because I went to my studio in the morning & banged out a couple of curtains for our living room, & by the time I was done, it was super-hot & I was super-tired & then Ramona commandeered my computer so she could watch “Harry Potter & the Sorceror’s Stone”.

But the curtains are nice, Y/Y?

I feel like I need to issue a warning. Some of these patterns look horrifically ugly at first glance because they are sewn up in some truly hideous fabric. The styling is extraordinarily questionable. It’s almost like people don’t want to sell patterns! But I have trained myself to look past samples that have clearly been sewn up in the cheapest available polyester at the fabric store & see the decent bones underneath. This is why it’s always so important to include technical drawings/line drawings with your pattern information. Some people have a really hard time seeing past the sample styling, & samples are often sewn up in colors or prints that obscure the style lines.

I’m DEFINITELY including fabric pairings with these bad boys, because some of them are in desperate need of re-imagining.

& again, my primary caveat: I don’t own & have not sewn all (or any) of these patterns. I’m not necessarily recommending them. I can’t speak to the drafting, the size range, the PDF options, or anything else. They are just new releases that caught my eye. On to the skirts!

McCall’s 7813


It’s wrap skirt. Not like we’ve never seen one of those before. But I like the high waist, I like the wrap-around waist tie, & I REALLY like that this pattern has a cool asymmetrical view that I’d be willing to splash out on during a JoAnn 99-cent sale. I might just be feeling the back-to-school vibes, but I’m seeing this in a plaid flannel, rather like this lovely fabric that I in fact already own! Though it’s earmarked for a shirtdress that I’m still hoping to make once the weather cools down.

Burda 7/2018 #127


This is really cute, & I wish it wasn’t styled here with that stupid “I just rode the Hamptons jitney for the first time” belt because the awesome thing about this skirt is that all that fullness is created by about a gazillion darts stitched down to create the waist shaping. Burda of course simply recommends “fabric with some body,” & I know this is kind of crazy, but I fell in love with the idea of this gorgeous upholstery jacquard. The finished skirt would weigh about forty pounds, & you’d have to snip out each dart to reduce the bulk, but it would be BEAUTIFUL.

Ready to Sew Justine skirt


Okay, this is one of those styling fails I warned you about at the top of the post. This fabric. THIS FABRIC. It literally hurts my eyes with its sheer ugliness. I know there are people out there who like this kind of thing, & if you are one of them, I’m sorry…I’m sorry that you have such atrocious taste. Kidding! You do you! Leaves more actual pretty fabric for the rest of us. If you can get past the fabric, the skirt isn’t bad. It’s also not remotely original, but it IS free, so there’s that. I personally am still here for the button-down skirt trend, I like the big pockets, & this skirt would actually be a nice showcase for a border print, which I always love. I think this is really pretty–especially for the coming spring weather in the Southern Hemisphere! But you could also make it from a solid, lightweight twill & have yourself a perfectly serviceable work-a-day skirt.

Daughters of Style Mulligan skirt


I love stuff like this. Before I learned how to sew, I would pounce on anything with ribbon ruching I could find at H&M or Anthropologie or whatever. There was some episode of “Project Runway,” or maybe it was “Under the Gunn”? Sorry, I am a “Project Runway” obsessive & have even watched the spin-offs with kids. But a contestant made a skirt that you could alter using a mechanism that changed the length & drape. It was obviously ridiculous & unnecessarily cumbersome, but I loved it, because I love all this goofy stuff, even though I know I’ll adjust it to a length I like & never touch it again. One of the recommended textiles is raw silk. How insanely beautiful would this be?!

Moving on to…miscellaneous?

Burda 7/2018 #115 swimsuit

burda 115

How cute is this? I love it. I draft all my own swimsuits, so I’m not going to buy this pattern…but I might knock it off. I just love that little peekaboo of skin at the bust, & the way the bust mimics the waistline on the bottoms. I think Burda made a good choice with the gingham here, & I recommend this gingham swimwear fabric. I have it in yellow & it’s great–opaque even when stretched to the limit, really nice quality…I am almost sad I didn’t buy the mint colorway as well.

Studio Costura Mia panties

mia panties

I draft all my own panties as well. (Content warning: I’ve decided to start saying “panties” instead of “undies”. I know a lot of people are really grossed out by the word “panties,” but I think it’s sexy. Sorry not sorry.) So I won’t be buying this pattern. But it’s VERY cute, & I always love looking at the samples for lingerie patterns because they give me tons of ideas for my own makes. This pattern is obviously a real showcase for some gorgeous scalloped stretch lace, & it doesn’t have to be terribly wide. I think this 6″ pink lace is so pretty.

Tessuti Melbourne Trench Coat

tessuti melbourne trench

Before I saw the photos for this pattern, I was like, “Another trench coat, BORRRRR-ING!” I’m just not a trench coat person. But this isn’t your usual flasher-in-a-dark-alley trench coat. The thing that really grabbed me about it is its design simplicity. It seems like a perfect blank canvas for a special textile, & my mind of course went straight to RAINCOAT. I’ve been on the hunt for the perfect raincoat pattern for years. I basically want to look like a cross between the Gorton’s fisherman & the Morton’s Salt girl, which I guess means I want a really simple, utilitarian, straightforward raincoat with a slightly more feminine silhouette, & it must have a hood. This is checking my boxes! I wonder if it would work in this waterproof outdoor canvas…In a shocking twist, I am REALLY feeling that pink color.

& we’ll close out with a surprising quantity of jumpsuits.

Seamwork Lucy jumpsuit

seamwork lucy

Here’s another truly lamentable styling catastrophe. What is wrong with the folks over at Seamwork? They truly have the WORST taste in colors & textiles. They are based here in Portland, & let me tell you, this town has SO MANY fantastic local fabric shops. This poop-colored knit trimmed with a white drawstring is inexcusable. & I refuse to even acknowledge the existence of those shoes. BUT! A sleeveless knit jumpsuit with a drawstring waist? That’s almost stepping out of “secret pajamas” territory & jumping right into “actual straight-up pajamas”. I’ve never sewn a Seamwork pattern & am very skeptical of their drafting, but I like the idea of this pattern. It’s downright heroic. You could even do the top & bottom in different fabrics to make it look more like real clothes. I’m thinking a really pretty print for the top & a coordinating solid for the bottom.

Mood Fabrics Ursi ensemble

ursi ensemble

This is one of the free patterns from Mood Fabrics. It includes both the top & the pants. They bill it as an “ensemble”. Not only does this look really relaxed & easy to wear, perfect for all of your laying-around-on-the-edges-of-fountains needs (I actually do do that whenever there’s a fountain around), but the sleeves are detachable. The armscye is finished & attached to the bodice with belt loop braid & buttons. I really like this effect! I don’t love the braid also being used as piping on the pants cuff. It makes the pants suddenly look like very glamorous pajamas. You’d want a fabric that can hold its shape, for the collar, but isn’t so crisp that it won’t knot well. Honestly, I would love to see someone (…me?) make it up in this fabric. Beetlejuice Beetlejuice Beetlejuice!

DP Studio 3001 playsuit

dpstudio playsuit

Our final pattern of the month, & another brutal crime against eyeballs everywhere. How many Urban Outfitters dressing room curtains had to die so this sample garment could live?! BUT this is a really cute pattern! & if sewn in the right fabric, you don’t have to look like a tragic hitchhiker killed on her way to Coachella. This is actually a playsuit–the bottom half of the garment is culottes! The legs are so voluminous, it looks like a skirt, but you don’t have to worry about flashing anyone when you get tangled in the nearest beaded curtain & fall over. As has become my refrain, this just looks really cool & easy to wear. I’d use a nice voile or lawn. Or, here’s a clever idea: double gauze! That links to an amazing double gauze that is woven to resemble chambray, so you will look like you’re all business, but you’re actually wearing the most luscious, baby soft secret pajamas!

Wow! Getting deep into these patterns & doing these fabric pairings was almost as much fun as actual sewing! I will definitely be doing this series again. What do you think? Do you see yourself sewing any of these patterns? Are there any I skipped over that really grabbed your attention in July?

Published by Ciara

Ciara Xyerra wrote zines for the better part of two decades. She has a brilliant & adorable preschooler named Ramona & sews as much as she possibly can. She lives in Lawrence, Kansas with her boyfriend. She enjoys catching up on "The New Yorker", meatball subs, keeping it cranky, intersectional post-third wave feminism, dinosaurs, & monsters. If you have nothing nice to say, she recommends that you come sit here by her, so you can say not-nice things together.

10 thoughts on “top 20 new sewing patterns: July 2018 (part two)

  1. Thanks for the overview. I enjoyed both parts and agree that, if you can get by some butt-ugly fabrics (not to disparage butts) there are some nice styles here.

    1. Thanks! It’s definitely a challenge to see past some of these samples, but it’s fun to imagine how the patterns would look in different textiles.

  2. I LOVE all the skirts patterns you featured! Thanks for including great fabric choices! Love the pink raw silk! I have never sewn with it, but you’ve got me thinking…hmmm? 🙂

    1. Doing the fabric pairings was so much fun! But also a TON of work. I spent literally hours on these posts. I 100% do not need any new fabrics or patterns right now, but I have really created a temptation for myself with that Mulligan skirt/raw silk pairing. Not sure I’ll be able to resist for long…

    1. I know, I know. But I only like it conceptually! I’m hoping that spotlighting the idea of a knit jumpsuit will encourage a pattern company that actually knows how to draft to come out with a similar-but-decent version. Trust me, the Seamwork patterns for August are NOT making the cut. They are beyond hideous. They seriously look like the first, ill-fitting muslins sewn by someone who just learned how to sew three hours ago, & the fabric choices! Seriously, this town is OVERFLOWING with beautiful textiles. I don’t know why they insist on using the poly-est of hideous poly blends (or so they appear).

  3. A very enjoyable post, I appreciate the time that went into it.

    I gave up on Seamwork about a year ago. The dismal writing, abysmal patterns and ever changing subscription deal…too much hassle.

    I like the ruched skirt and am now hunting down the line drawings for the Burda darted skirt. And I NEVER wear skirts!

    1. Full disclosure: I’m a Seamwork member right now because I decided to check out their Design Your Wardrobe thing, which is only open to Seamwork members. By the time it’s all said & done, I will have three Seamwork credits to use. So I am trying to find three patterns that hold some degree of appeal & seem like they’d be hard to fuck up, drafting-wise, &/or relatively easy to fix if need be. If not for this Design Your Wardrobe thing (which ticks my two primary boxes: sewing & planning, with a nice healthy dose of self-important navel-gazing), I would never pay for Seamwork.

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