So, we are moving in three weeks! It’s actually a bit stressful, because we have to be out of current place in three weeks, but we don’t get the keys to our new place until the end of July. So we have a full week of nowhere to live, nowhere to put our stuff…We wound up securing storage through Uhaul & booking an Airbnb for the week. The troubling part is that the Airbnb is in Oskaloosa, which is a tiny, itsy bitsy little town (only about 1000 residents) 25 miles north of Lawrence. I’m going to bring a lot of library books & some hand-mending that I have been procrastinating on & view it as a Kansas staycation, but I think the real benefit is that it will make our new place seem palatial by comparison.
One of my goals is to finish photographing & blogging my backlog of garments before we move. We shall see if that happens. Today I have another pair of Ginger jeans. They are one of the three garments I made for the “RTW knock-off” challenge over at the Monthly Stitch. Voting is open now, so maybe consider heading over & voting for me? &/or any of the other entries. There are some good ones. That vintage-y dress & little bolero-style sweater that Hila from Saturday Night Stitch made is just fabulous. You can vote for three entries.
Anyway, on to the jeans! After I made my first pair of Gingers back in February, I decided that they were a little too big. I made a straight size 18, view A (low-rise with stovepipe legs), & brought the rise up 1″. They fit perfectly fresh out of the wash, but the stretch twill I used bags out over time, so they were sliding down my butt after like two wears. & I am not one of those people who rushes to wash jeans after every wear, unless something terrible happens to them (like spilling an entire cup of coffee on them–that happens to me more often than I’d like to contemplate).
For this version, I kept the size 18 at the inseam & went to size 14 at the side seams. I also brought the yoke in 1″ because I had a little bit of gaping in the back waistband with my first pair.
The result is a pretty okay fit. Maybe even a little too tight in the hips? I’ve already cut out a third pair (I wear jeans A LOT when it’s not 100 degrees out, & I’m trying to phase all RTW out of my wardrobe, so having several pairs of jeans I’ve made myself is definitely something I want) with that same 14/18 sizing. I think I might sew the hips with a slightly smaller seam allowance to give myself a little more space there.
My main issue with the fit is the waistband. I’m still getting some gaping in the back, & it really just seems a little too big all around. There’s a 8″ difference between my waist & my hips…but still. Maybe I need to contour the waistband a little more? I don’t think it needs to be taken in where the waistband meets the jeans. It’s more the top of the waistband that is the issue. I’m just not 100% sure how to address this problem. If anyone reading this has any insight they want to offer, I’m all ears.
Anyway, I made these up in pretty heavyweight stretch twill. I chose gray just to mix things up a little, & to experiment with contrast topstitching while still keeping things very neutral. I used heavyweight Gutermann topstitching thread & you know what? I hate it. I like Gutermann all-purpose thread a lot. But their topstitching thread is too heavy. I’ve used it on three different machines (a Singer, a Brother, & a Pfaff), & all three were like, “Fuck this.” I’ve used a slightly lighter weight button thread from Gutermann is it just slides through the machine like butter. My local shop doesn’t sell that weight, so I have to special order it from Wawak, but it is 100% worth the shipping cost & extra planning. There are places on these jeans where the heavyweight thread is looping a bit on the underside & it drives me insane.
I mostly sewed these on my new Pfaff. I haven’t talked much about it, even though I’ve been using it exclusively for like six weeks now. I am still learning my way around it a bit, but I like it a lot. It handled the fabric & the topstitching a lot better than my Brother did when I made my first pair of Gingers. Some of that could maybe be chalked up to experience (only four months elapsed between the two pairs, but I feel like I am improving all the time, & I went through that all-shirtdresses-all-the-time phase between the jeans, which was a crash course in topstitching), but a lot of it was just not having to fight the machine quite as much. It took corners, like on the waistband, especially well.
Because these were made for my Patti Smith-inspired outfit, I used the alphabet stitches on my Pfaff to embroider a quote from her on the back pockets. She gave an interview about her personal style to the “New York Times” a few years ago & said, “My style is very, ‘Look at me, don’t look at me.'” I think that quote could be read in two ways. Interpretation #1: “Look at me!” *waves frantically, trying to draw all attention* “Don’t look at me!” *hides face from all attention* Interpretation #2: “Look at me, don’t look at me, I don’t give a damn either way.” I could kind of relate to either interpretation, really.
So, those are my newest jeans! I wore them to the local fabric shop yesterday & one of employees asked if I needed any help while I was examining the wall of notions. I turned around & she said, “Oh, it’s you! I just saw you from the back & was like, ‘That person sews & obviously knows what she’s doing,’ but I didn’t recognize you,” & one of the other employees said, “Yeah, because she’s not wearing black.”